on visas

so i have been getting settled in amman. i have moved yet again. hopefully this will be the last time for a while. it was a very difficult decision for me to leave palestine, though it is one i made some time ago. ultimately, one of my prime motivations for leaving the u.s. was not not be a taxpayer there any longer so as not to contribute to the u.s. machine of death, theft, destruction in palestine, iraq, afghanistan, pakistan, we can add honduras now, who knows where we’ll have to add next. ultimately i knew that i could not stay in palestine forever given that foreigners (i.e., not palestinians; read: zionist colonist terrorists) control the borders and they get to play a game with the lives of all people who cross over into palestine whether they are originally palestinian or not. i’ve long heard stories and received emails–some from friends and comrades, others from complete strangers–about being denied entry. about being allowed limited entry, in terms of time. about three weeks before i left a friend of mine left for amman to renew her visa. she’s finishing up research for her dissertation and living in ramallah. she came back and said she had only a few days and she had to leave again. not only could she only stay one week (in lieu of the normal three month visa granted to foreigners at the malak hussein bridge), but she was granted a west bank only visa. this was the first time i had heard of such a thing. but it turns out that it was quickly becoming a phenomenon. and there have been a number of articles written about it since:

new west bank-only visa stamp from the zionist terrorist colonists
new west bank-only visa stamp from the zionist terrorist colonists

first there was an article by toufic haddad laying out this issue in the faster times:

“Palestinian Authority only” greatly restricts this freedom of movement, and thus undoes the former arrangement. It essentially precludes travel to areas of pre-1967 Israel, as well as to Israeli controlled areas in the occupied West Bank, including East Jerusalem….

Israel exercises full control over 59 percent of the West Bank – areas known as “Area C.”

It further exercises security control over an additional 24 percent of the West Bank (Area B) with the Palestinian Authority [PA] in control of civil affairs there.

The only area which the PA nominally controls in full, and which a holder of this stamp is thus presumably eligible to travel to, is Area A. The latter comprises the remaining 17 percent of the West Bank.

Area A however is not composed of one territorial unit, but is divided into thirteen non-contiguous areas….

Israel’s travel restrictions to PA areas are somewhat contradictory. Visitors can seemingly travel to Area As but must do so by crossing Israeli controlled areas (Area C). This means that visitors have the right to hop between different Area A ‘islands’, but can’t be caught in between.

Moreover, the very restriction on travel is equivalent to a country issuing a visa to a specific area of its country, but not to the whole country. A parallel might be the U.S. issuing a visa only to majority-black Harlem in Manhattan, or the Mashantucket Pequot reservation in Connecticut.

This happens to violate the 1995 Israeli-Palestinian Interim Agreement (also known as “Oslo II” or “Taba”) which states that “Tourists to the West Bank and the Gaza Strip from countries having diplomatic relations with Israel, who have passed through an international crossing, will not be required to pass any additional entry control before entry into Israel.” (Annex 1, Article IX “Movement Into, Within and Outside the West Bank and the Gaza Strip” 2 (e))

later the palestine chronicle reported that an official decision had been made about these new visa rules:

Israel’s tourism ministry on Monday slammed the interior ministry for enacting new restrictions that would prevent foreigners from visiting both Israel and the Palestinian territories.

The measure, which was quietly enacted earlier this year, forces arriving visitors to choose between a visa for Israel and one for the Palestinian territories, potentially preventing them from traveling to both.

“This decision taken by the interior ministry causes significant damage to Israel’s image and to incoming tourism for those tourists who visit the holy sites in the Palestinian Authority,” the tourism ministry said in a statement.

It demanded that the matter be discussed in the Knesset, or parliament, which is currently on summer recess.

A spokeswoman for the interior ministry would not immediately comment.

The U.S. consulate in Jerusalem has posted a message on its website informing travelers of the new visa stamp being issued at Ben Gurion Airport and the Allenby crossing with Jordan that permits travel only in the West Bank.

“Anyone indicating that they either have connections to the West Bank or are planning to travel to the West Bank may get this stamp, which does not permit them to enter into (or, in the case of Ben Gurion, return to) green-line Israel,” it says.

in most countries, like here in jordan, when you are hired as a foreigner they don’t make you live as a tourist leaving the country every three months as the foreign zionist terrorist colonists do. people who work in palestine–some of whom are palestinian with foreign passports–have to do that. they have to leave every three months. i got lucky in that an najah university was able to get me a six month visa for my last semester. but that is also at the whim of what the zionists decide and completely random. there was no telling if i’d ever be able to get one again. and as the piece above makes clear it is possible that if i received a visa i’d have to decide which side of the zionist drawn green line would i be on. of course it would be on the side with the west bank. that would mean i would not be able to visit the u.s. consulate if i needed anything, nor would i be able to go to the zionist terrorist colonist interior ministry if i wanted to challenge such a thing because all such offices are in al quds, which has been annexed and stolen by them. but i also experienced this sort of visa issue this summer. i was having coffee with a friend in al quds and her friend called from qalandia checkpoint. he was palestinian canadian, originally from yaffa, visiting palestine for the first time. the zionist terrorist colonists at the checkpoint tore up his visa, which was on a separate paper inside his passport, because since he flew into their airport on the occupied land of lydd, he could no go back to “israel.” they said he left and went to another country so he could not return. we went to qalandia to pick him up and smuggle him out so he could challenge this, get a new visa, and report it to the canadian embassy (though unlike the americans, the canadians have offices in the west bank).

then last week a european woman (she did not identify herself exactly, but i have a feeling she is irish and that i have seen her before) emailed me to tell me that she could not get back into palestine at all. she said she was also a professor, although at bethlehem university, and that she was denied entry altogether. the chronicle of higher education ran a piece last week documenting the effect of the visa situation in palestine on academics by matthew kalman (thanks aneil) and i think the irish woman in the piece is the one who emailed me:

Israel has clamped down on the movement of foreign academics teaching at Palestinian universities in the West Bank, barring some from entering the region altogether or stamping “Palestinian Authority only” in the passports of others, preventing them from entering Israel.

An English-language instructor from Ireland who taught for several years at the Arab American University, in Jenin, was refused entry on August 23 when she returned to the West Bank to take up a new position at Bethlehem University and is now unable to teach. A Canadian instructor of Iranian descent was given the “Palestinian Authority only” stamp when he arrived on Sunday to teach at the Arab American University’s English Language Center. A British lecturer in Middle East politics had to cancel a planned lecture at Birzeit University this year after she was denied entry by Israeli immigration officials.

The Irish instructor, who asked not to be named, said she had been teaching English at the Arab American University since 2007. Although the Israeli authorities refused to issue her a work permit, in the past they had always accepted her employment contract and extended her tourist visa to the contract’s end date.

She left the West Bank for Jordan on August 20 and returned via the Allenby Bridge, which connects the West Bank with Jordan, on August 23, with 11 days left on her visa.

“I was due to take up a new position at Bethlehem University on August 24. I had a letter from the university on official paper, but it was all very different this time,” she told The Chronicle from Jordan, where she was stranded. “I was kept waiting for four hours and then the immigration officer started screaming at me about a lack of work permit.”

After lengthy interrogation by a plainclothes security officer and an Israeli Ministry of the Interior official, she was photographed, fingerprinted, and told her request to enter was denied.

“It is greatly to be regretted, she was a valued employee,” said Graham Stott, chair of the department of modern languages at the Arab American University.

Mr. Stott said several lecturers who were allowed in were issued visas restricting them to the Palestinian Authority areas only.

“For some the restrictive visa is not problematic because they are here to work in Jenin, and they are quite happy to leave via Jordan and so it doesn’t really affect them. For others who had planned to visit Israel it seriously compromises their position and their ability to do research,” Mr. Stott said.

Information for travelers posted on the Web site of the U.S. Consulate General in Jerusalem confirms the recent change in policy.

“Anyone indicating that they either have connections to the West Bank or are planning to travel to the West Bank, may get this stamp,” which does not permit them to enter into or return to Israel. “The Consulate can do nothing to assist in getting this visa status changed,” the Web site states. It is not clear when or why the new visas were introduced. The Israeli Defense Ministry directed all inquiries to the coordinator of Israeli government activities in the territories. A spokesman for the coordinator directed inquiries to the country’s Interior Ministry, where a spokesperson did not return calls seeking comment.

The new visa being stamped in tourists’ passports has been criticized for unfairly limiting the movements of visitors with Palestinian relatives or friends, whose first stop may be the West Bank but who intend to visit Israel as well. Many Americans of Palestinian origin but who lack Palestinian passports have been turned back on arrival at Ben Gurion Airport and told they can enter only from Jordan via the Allenby Bridge.

Hanadi Abu-Taha, administrative assistant at the Arabic-language-teaching program at Birzeit University, told The Chronicle that two American students and one Japanese student were turned back at the Jordanian-Israeli border at the end of August.

“None of them is from a Palestinian background. Students who came through Ben Gurion Airport managed to enter, but those who came through the land crossing from Jordan were refused. We don’t know why,” Miss Taha said.

“Because of the visa problems we have shortened the semester from four to three months, which is the length of the Israeli tourist visa. It is causing major disruption,” she said.

Toufic Haddad, a Palestinian-American activist who revealed the new policy on his blog in early August said the new visa was a violation of the 1995 Israeli-Palestinian Agreement (known as the Oslo II Accords), which allows for most foreign tourists to pass from the West Bank and Gaza Strip into Israel.

“Most visiting faculty have been granted a one-year single-entry visa if they are associated with an educational institution, but some haven’t,” said Salwa Duaibis, coordinator of the Right to Enter Campaign, a group advocating unfettered access to the Palestinian Authority areas. “I have a feeling there isn’t much effort put into making sure the regulations are understood by the police at the border.”

Ms. Duaibis said that foreign students enter on tourist visas and can be forced to leave after three months. “Universities cannot plan their academic year properly and neither students nor professors can rely on the arrangement 100 percent,” she said.

here is also a report by sherine tadros on al jazeera about this growing problem in palestine, especially for people who are palestinian foreign passport holders or who have familial ties to palestinians in the west bank:

i haven’t tried to go back yet since i left a month and a half ago. but i hope that i can at least get in so i can go to deheishe. for those who are already dealing with being denied a visa by the foreign occupier, i strongly recommend you check out the right to enter campaign’s website, as mentioned above in the chronicle article. they are very helpful and they have a lot of new resources on their website about this new way of the zionist terrorist colonists creating new facts on the ground. and these facts, jonathan cook reminds us in electronic intifada, are a kind of gazification of visa rules in the west bank:

In an echo of restrictions already firmly in place in Gaza, Israel has begun barring movement between Israel and the West Bank for those holding a foreign passport, including humanitarian aid workers and thousands of Palestinian residents.

The new policy is designed to force foreign citizens, mainly from North America and Europe, to choose between visiting Israel — including East Jerusalem, which Israel has annexed illegally — and the West Bank.

The new regulation is in breach of Israel’s commitments under the Oslo accords to Western governments that their citizens would be given continued access to the Occupied Palestinian Territories. Israel has not suggested there are any security justifications for the new restriction.

Palestinian activists point out that the rule is being enforced selectively by Israel, which is barring foreign citizens of Palestinian origin from access to Israel and East Jerusalem while actively encouraging European and American Jews to settle in the West Bank.

US diplomats, who are aware of the policy, have raised no objections.

Additionally, human rights groups complain that the rule change will further separate East Jerusalem, the planned capital of a Palestinian state, from the West Bank. It is also expected to increase the pressures on families where one member holds a foreign passport to leave the region and to disrupt the assistance aid organizations are able to give Palestinians.

According to observers, the regulation was introduced quietly three months ago at the Allenby Bridge terminal on the border with Jordan, the only international crossing point for Palestinians in the West Bank. Israeli officials, who control the border, now issue foreign visitors with a visa for the “Palestinian Authority only,” preventing them from entering Israel and East Jerusalem.

Interior ministry officials say a similar policy is being adopted at Ben Gurion, Israel’s international airport near Tel Aviv, to bar holders of foreign passports who arrive via this route from reaching the West Bank. Foreign citizens, especially those with Palestinian ancestry, are being turned away and told to seek entry via the Allenby Bridge.

Gaza has long been off-limits to any Palestinian who is not resident there and has been effectively closed to Israelis and most foreigners since early 2006, when Israel began its blockade.

and that is what an apartheid visa system looks like.

a little drive through some farmlands

Palestinian farm north of Nablus
Palestinian farm north of Nablus
Today felt like the first day of winter. I woke up and the sky was such a beautiful, periwinkle, moody color. The clouds were so rich and full of rain that they took up all the space around Nablus as they poured a soft rain into the streets. I love mornings like this, especially early in the morning before everyone wakes up, when the streets are still quiet. This is when my taxi came to get me to take me half way to the Sheikh Hussein Bridge in northern 1948 Palestine so I could cross into Jordan. It turns out my driver’s daughter is a student in the English department at An Najah, though she’s not in any of my classes. On the way out of Nablus he wanted to drive me by his house so we could get some tea for the road.

Palestinian farms north of Nablus
Palestinian farms north of Nablus

I started thinking about his kindness, his generosity with this simple gesture and it made me think about some comments I heard earlier this week from a student that has disturbed me since. I haven’t been able to write it down, let alone really say it out loud because it has bothered me so much. But I’m going to do it now because the racism emanating from the U.S. and from the Zionist state this last week has escalated and I do not like the way it spills over into Palestine. This is one export they should definitely keep to themselves. Anyway, the word that was said was “animal” and it was used to describe Palestinian refugees. I don’t think she knew entirely the implications of that word, or maybe she did. We had a long talk about it, but I still don’t think she understood. She kept trying to qualify, to back step. But the more she did the more I heard her sounding like a privileged white girl from an American suburb afraid of the inner city ghetto because it’s filled with Brown folks. The impetus is the same. But here it feels worse, oh so much worse. The political divisions among various Palestinian factions dominate the headlines. But what really disturbs me most are the divisions I hear from my students based on space–whether one is from a village, a refugee camp, a city. And then inside those spaces it is divided again this time by family name. All of this brings me back to the kindness of the driver. I find myself sometimes uncomfortable around this sort of expression of kindness because I really wonder if I am only privy to it because of my white skin, my privilege as a foreigner. Yet another dynamic courtesy of racism.

illegal Israeli checkpoint north of Nablus on way to 1948
illegal Israeli checkpoint north of Nablus on way to 1948

In any case, I had a lovely drive through a small, curvy, windy road headed north out of Nablus. I took these photographs of these beautiful farms all dotted along the landscape. There were beautiful streams and wadis which were obviously rich with water and they were yielding gorgeous crops. The farmers were out, working their land at this early hour. Their farms were open and wide on both sides of the so-called Green Line border. Palestinians trying to live as free as they can on their land as they work to feed the people of Palestine, or at least those who respect their hard labor enough to understand why their hard work is worth rewarding while those agriculture products coming from the Zionists are not.

Palestinians farming in 1948
Palestinians farming in 1948

These farmers pictured above from 1948 Palestine, on the other side of the border, were also similarly working their land. But what I was struck by, though I was not quick enough to photograph, is that the Zionist farms are surrounded by barbed wire. Everything about their lives imprisons them while they imprison Palestinians. They even have to jail their food. I took this last photograph of Palestinians farming as I changed taxis. My driver could only take me so far as his license plates won’t allow him to drive on the Jewish-only roads or into 1948 Palestine. So he made arrangements for me to have a man from Nasra meet us on the side of the road and he drove me to the bridge.

a lone Palestinian home in Bisan, 1948 Palestine
a lone Palestinian home in Bisan, 1948 Palestine

We drove through the Palestinian village Bisan, which the Zionists erased with some new name, which I forget. I found this one Palestinian house, pictured above, though mostly they were the usual Zionist architectural eye-sore structure that resembles American subdivisions: where all the houses look the same, all red roofs, all same shape. But of course erasing Palestinian villages and homes wouldn’t be complete if America’s McDonald’s didn’t also occupy that space too.

McDonald's replacing Palestinian homes in Bisan, 1948 Palestine
McDonald's replacing Palestinian homes in Bisan, 1948 Palestine

The Sheikh Hussein bridge was very close to Bisan. It was very quiet experience as opposed to the Malak Hussein bridge, which I much prefer. I did not like being among foreigners whose politics are likely questionable given the proximity to 1948, to Israeli tourists coming to Jordan. It did not feel safe among such people. No Palestinians around anywhere. Though I did watch the truck drivers waiting in the middle of the bridge (see below) waiting to pass under the Israeli Terrorist Forces’ watch tower. I wonder how long they have waited or will wait. I wonder how much food will rot while they are waiting.

goods blocked at the Jordanian border under watchful Israeli terrorist eyes
goods blocked at the Jordanian border under watchful Israeli terrorist eyes

I managed to get to Amman at a good hour enabling me to run errands and pick up things I haven’t been able to get for the last couple of months given that I haven’t found a non-Israeli version of them yet. I was struck by how mcuh of Amman has started looking like Beirut. Lots of shops and restaurants here that one sees in Beirut: Vero Modo, Cafe Najjar, Za’atar w’ Zeit, Promod. Not all of them are Lebanese, but they are all ubiquitous in Lebanon. I started wondering if perhaps the Jordanians are trying to become like the Lebanese. But I think they are getting it wrong. There are many amazing things about Lebanon, but the most beautiful pieces of Lebanon have yet to be replicated here in Jordan. One of those things is, of course, the resistance. A real resistance. Another is anti-normalization with the Zionist state. It would be far better to see Jordanians following that path than the one of this mindless consumption and consumerism. That is not Lebanon at its best.